Home Grounds Blog: Posts

1. Orchids, the “Perfect” Gift for Valentine’s Day
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   Looking for that special gift for Valentine’s Day? Orchids are exotic, elegant, and romantic. That's what makes them the perfect gift for your special someone on Valentine's Day.
   
   Orchids come in all colors except black (although there are orchids that are almost black), in all sorts of beautiful and bizarre shapes, and in a wide range of sizes. Although most garden centers carry reasonably priced, easy-to-grow varieties (mostly tropical species), in the natural world there are more than 20,000 species of orchids, growing in every type of habitat from tropical rain forests to the tundra and semi-arid desert, and on every continent except Antarctica. Orchids grow in all 50 states, even Alaska!
   
   Since many homes are quite dry in winter, particularly those with forced-air heat, you’ll want to choose species that tolerate such conditions.  Not all orchids grow in rain forests; some grow in areas with seasonal dry periods.  Some of the more common are found among dendrobiums, oncidiums, and the corsage orchid (Cattleya).  More uncommon for dry climates are Brassavola and some Aerangis orchids.  Generally those that grow best in dry, indoor air include ones with seasonal growth, hard leaves, and “pseudobulbs” (a swollen stem area the plant uses for storage).   Using a humidifier near plants, or placing them on a tray of pebbles, kept moist, will help most any orchid in dry indoors. 
   
   When buying an orchid, the plant should be securely rooted in the pot and have lustrous flowers and firm, succulent leaves and pseudobulbs.  For those “epiphytes”— that grow naturally on the sides of trees, that get their nutrients and moisture from rain and air, which are the ones you’ll find growing in bark — fresh, white roots with green root tips also are a sign of a healthy plant.  As with other flowering plants, buy orchids with some buds still left to open.  Make sure flowers and leaves don’t have spots, which could be from poor culture or even disease.
   
   Orchids are commonly grouped as cool, intermediate, and warm, based on the plant's optimum night requirements (45 to 50 degrees F, 55 to 65 degrees F, and above 65 degrees F, respectively).  For warm homes, consider the Dendrobium, moth orchid (Phalaenopsis), or Vanda orchids.  The moth orchids grow under similar conditions to African violets, making them one of the best choices for growing indoors.
   
   Those for intermediate temperatures, such as Cattleya and its hybrids, may need more humidity to grow well than is usually possible indoors.  Cymbidum and Oncidium, while taking cooler temperatures in winter, also need high humidity and high light to grow best. 
    
   Some orchids may not bloom if the nighttime and daytime temperatures are the same. Consistently warm temperatures are good for leaf growth, but may suppress flower development.
   
   Most orchids require relatively high light intensities and should be grown in an east or south window. However, a few will grow well under low intensity fluorescent lights. Insufficient light is the most common reason orchids don't flower. If there is too little light, the leaves become a deep, lush green. With too much light, the leaves turn yellow-green.
   
   Orchids vary in their water requirements.  The tropical orchids, which mainly are epiphytes, should be grown in a very porous potting medium such as coarse fir bark or lava rock. Place these pots in the sink and run lukewarm water through them for about 15 seconds, then allow to drain for about 15 minutes. Terrestrial types, rooted in soil, require a well-drained growth medium.  One of my favorite orchids, which is easy to grow in soil indoors and lasts for many years, is the Jewel orchid (Ludisia). Another popular terrestrial orchid, easy to grow indoors, is the lady slipper (Paphiopedilum).
   
   Watering and fertilizer frequency depends on orchid, and the medium in which they are potted. Most orchids growing in bark cannot survive prolonged drought and should be watered often. However, some require a "dry season" of six to eight weeks during which watering is reduced but not stopped. This "dry season" must occur immediately after the current growth matures and is often necessary to initiate future flowering. Some Dendrobium and Oncidium orchid species are in this group.
   
   Orchids are affected by many of the same pests and diseases as other houseplants. Insects such as mealybugs and aphids can be controlled with water rinses and insecticidal soaps.
   
   If you want to buy a potted orchid for yourself or for a gift, check online for local orchid growers or societies, or visit your local florist, greenhouse, or garden store.  These can be great sources of information, as is the American Orchid Society (www.aos.org).
   
   If all this culture sounds too much for you or your Valentine recipient, consider a cut-flower orchid you can find at florists.  Protect it from cold on the way home, and from cold drafts once home.  Keep away from direct sun and heat sources.  Cut Cattleya should last for one week.  Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, and Paphipedilum should last one to two weeks as cut flowers.  Longest lasting orchids as cut flowers, often from 4 to 6 weeks, are Cymbidium orchids. Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor, University of Vermont was used as a resource for this article.

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   Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

   Published: 1/23/2012 2:28 PM
2. Protecting Precious Plants from Cold Damage
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   Winter temperatures in Alabama can vary almost daily. One winter morning it may be it the low forties and then be a very nice warm sunny day by the afternoon. Then suddenly the next day it could be below freezing with a harsh cold northern wind like we experienced this past week.

   With most plants, our Alabama winter temperature fluctuations usually have no real drastic effect. Those native to Alabama go dormant in the winter and tend to survive. However, those that are not from around here can easily become confused, be damaged, or even killed from drastic cold temperatures or harsh winter. Tropical plants, citrus, and houseplants naturally are quite vulnerable.

   Cold damage can occur on any plant. Each year, many established landscape ornamental plants suffer various degrees of cold damage due to drastic fluctuations in outside temperature.  A sudden drop to below freezing temperatures from a period of relatively mild weather may cause damage even to hardy plants that might otherwise have suffered little or no damage. A gradual decrease in temperature will harden off plants, allowing them to withstand freezing temperatures better. This is not true for tender plants, because they will not tolerate freezing temperatures regardless of the preceding temperatures.  The longer below freezing temperatures persist, the more likely damage is to occur. This is because as time goes by, heat stored in plants, soil, walls, etc. that initially moderates temperatures around the plant is lost

   Homeowners cannot control the weather but they can take steps to protect plants from winter temperature extremes:  

   • Avoid fall pruning which will cause flush of new growth that will be more susceptible to cold injury.
   • Apply mulch to plants after the first hard freeze. Pine straw is perfect and readily available to most people. Add a 3- to 4-inch layer around the base of the plants. Mulch helps the soil retain moisture and protects roots with a blanket of insulation that can keep the soil from freezing during periods of extended cold temperatures.
   • Move containers into protective structures where heat can be supplied. Containers that must be left outdoors should be protected by mulch or a blanket and pushed together before a freeze to reduce heat loss from the sides of the container. (Note: the leaves of large canopy plants in pots can be damaged if crowded together for extended periods.)
   • Plant coverings provide more protection from frost than from extreme cold. Covers that extend to the ground and are not in contact with plant foliage can lessen cold injury by reducing heat loss from the plant and from the ground. Foliage that touches the cover is more easily injured because of heat transfer from the foliage to the colder cover. Some examples of coverings are: cloth sheets, quilts or black plastic. You must remove plastic covers during a sunny day or provide necessary ventilation and release trapped heat.
   • Watering landscape plants before a freeze can also help protect plants. Well watered soil is capable of absorbing more solar radiation than dry soil and will radiate heat at night. Roots that are contained in moist soil are also insulated against extreme cold. Dry roots are more likely to suffer from cold damage.
   • Healthy plants that have had proper nutrition will be more tolerant of cold temperatures and recover from injury more rapidly than plants grown with suboptimal nutrition. Start this health tip before fall.  Late fall fertilization or fertilization before unseasonably warm periods can actually cause winter injury.

   Also keep cold damage in mind when designing the landscape and installing plants:

   • Every landscape contains different microclimates that are determined by a variety of factors, including elevation, landform, surface reflectivity, soil properties, degree of canopy cover, and proximity of structures or plants. These conditions can cause temperatures to fluctuate from one location to another within your landscape. You should consider your existing microclimates or ways to modify them when choosing planting sites for cold sensitive plants.
   • Tender plants should be planted in a site with good air circulation, rather than a low area where cold air settles. Provide barriers to protect tender plants from cold winds by shielding them with adjacent plantings, fences, or buildings. The height, density, and location of a windbreak will affect the degree of wind speed reduction at a given site.
   • The cover of tree canopies can help reduce cold injury in several ways. Plants in shaded locations typically go dormant earlier in the fall and remain dormant later in the spring. Minimum night temperatures under a tree are higher because the canopy reduces radiant heat loss from the ground to the atmosphere. The shade provided from early morning sun can decrease bark splitting of some woody plants. Plants that thrive in partial shade usually show less winter injury than plants in full sun. However, plants requiring sunlight that are placed in shade will be unhealthy, and so less tolerant of cold temperatures.
   • Poor soil drainage can affect cold susceptibility by causing plants to have weak, shallow root systems which are more susceptible to cold injury.

   For help on other home and garden questions, contact your local County Extension office.

   Shane Harris is the County Extension Coordinator for Tallapoosa County.

   Category: Ornamentals

   Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

   Published: 1/11/2012 8:48 AM
3. The Perfect Storm for Colony Collapse Disorder
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   In fall 2006, entomologist, farmers, and beekeepers were shocked to see entire hives of honey bees dying.  These colony deaths were rapid​ and without a recognizable cause.  The mystery was named Colony Collapse Disorder, or CCD.

   Honey bees are responsible for roughly 1/3 of your diet; creating $15 billion in annual crop value. They are more prolific than other pollinators and are the easiest to manage for the large scale crop production needed to feed the U.S. population.  So researchers jumped on this mystery to find an answer.  The most common answer to date is - STRESS.  Yes, that horrible factor that causes everything from over-eating to lack of sleep and stroke in humans.  Surprised?  Well the life of a honey bee is complicated.  They endure: annual colony disruption ("robbing" the honey), a nomadic life on flatbed trucks from fields to orchards, no vacation days, and attack from various mites, fungi and exotic viruses. 

   The latest pest to honey bees is a tiny fly, Apocephalus borealis; the bee-phorid fly. A report from San Francisco State University's Andrew Core published findings this week.  He and other colleagues found this tiny parasite attacking honey bee colonies in the San Francisco area. 

   These bee-phorids hover near foraging honey bee workers and lay an egg inside the bee.  Within a week or two, fly larvae emerge from the deceased honey bee.  Core's study showed that before meeting their grisly end, infected bees left the hive and died outside the colony.  Such behavior is well documented in CCD cases so it's easy to have a reaction of, "ah, ha!"  However, these parasites have never before been found attacking honey bees.  This is a new relationship - bee-phorid fly to honey bee.  This phorid fly species has been here in North America for a long time and commonly associated with bumble bees, but not honey bees.  For now, researchers theorize it's a twist of evolutionary opportunism due to increasing stress on the honey bee.

   While this may not solve the mystery, it’s important to know that many wild honey bee populations appear to be less affected by CCD. And honey bees have weathered declining populations in the past (the 1880s, 1903, the 1920s, 1960s, and 1995).  Declines that were similarly not well understood.  We also know that insects, honey bees included, by their design are notoriously sturdy animals able to adapt and survive.  It's then likely that they'll weather this storm too.

   For more information contact your local Extension office http://www.aces.edu/counties/; our ACES website: http://www.aces.edu/main/; or our national website http://www.extension.org/

   Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

   Published: 1/10/2012 10:11 AM
4. Unusual Tree Ornaments
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   I guess by now most folks have taken down the Christmas tree and packed up all their ornaments and if you are like my family, you probably have a few rather unusual ones.  Well over the Christmas break a former Master Gardener class member sent me a photo of an interesting tree ornament that she found.  This was not your ordinary Christmas tree ornament as it was found hanging on a River Birch tree in her back yard.  It looked more like a brown paper bag you might see in the hands of youngster on Halloween.  Turns out the little brown bag is an open (vacated) cocoon of a rather large moth called the Polyphemus Moth.
   
   
   The Polyphemus Moth is a beautiful large brown moth with large yellow eye spots on the second pair of wings.  It is one of the prime collector’s items for any student of entomology who is making an insect or butterfly collection.  The males and females look similar in appearance but the males have large feathery antenna which they use to find the females.  The females give off a pheromone (similar to perfume)  that the males can detect from over a mile away if the wind is right. So girls never underestimate the power of perfume!

    
   
   
   The immature stage of this moth is a rather large green menacing looking caterpillar but is really harmless.  The caterpillar is not a picky eater and feeds on wide variety of tree leaves.  From the time it hatches out of a small brown egg, until it is ready to pupate, the caterpillar will consume 86,000 times its weight in about two months. Now that is a major appetite.  Fortunately the caterpillars do not appear in high concentrations and so the damage to trees is usually insignificant.

   The name Polyphemus has its origin in Greek mythology.  Polyphemus was the son of Poseidon. He was a cyclops in Greek (Kuklops) meaning "round eye", a mythical semi-human monster of huge proportions, with a single eye at the center of his forehead, usually described as a one-eyed giant.  So you just never know what you might find in your own back yard, you might just find a sleeping bag with a Greek monster inside!
   
   (photos by: L.L. Hyche, Auburn Univ. and Dan Culbert, UF/IFAS)
   
   ​

    

   Category: Insects; Smart Yards; Ornamentals

   Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

   Published: 1/3/2012 2:21 PM
5. So Many Leaves, So Little Time
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   ​ Q:   Autumn is my favorite time of year.  The air is getting cooler, the holidays are just around the corner, and the leaves are spectacular, with brilliant hues of red, orange, and gold.  However, all too soon, they flutter to the ground, bringing with them the annual question, “What can I do with all of these leaves?”  Other than taking on the monumental task of raking and bagging, do you have any suggestions?

   A:   I love this time of year as well.  I always look forward to Fall’s brilliant display of color, but somewhere in the back of my mind, I start to dread thoughts of that brilliant color littered all over my yard and landscape. 

   Who among us didn’t grow up with the yearly task of raking and bagging leaves for disposal in the landfill?  While it was hard work, the occasional dive into the leaf pile made it almost worth it, but, this method is not a good use of our natural resources.  Other folks still rake and burn their leaves, which is not only a waste of valuable organic matter, but can also become a fire hazard, depending on the amount of rain that has fallen.

   There are several other options for leaf disposal.  A great way to make use of all of those leaves is to turn them into mulch, and the best method for accomplishing this is by using the lawn mower bagging attachment.  The mower helps to shred the leaves, making them less bulky, and more easily handled.  After shredding, you can spread leaves around the bases of trees and shrubs, or in your annual and perennial beds to cover any bare soil areas.  The gradual decomposition of this leaf layer will result in the addition of valuable organic matter to your soil, as well as moisture conservation and reduced weed growth.  One point to consider – leaves break down fairly quickly as a mulch layer.  Consequently, you will need to add material a little more often than you would if using bark mulch.  If you are like most of us, you have a bountiful supply, so that should be no problem!

   Composting is another option for the disposal of all of those leaves.  If you have a compost bin, fill it in the fall and keep any remaining leaves in a holding bin or in plastic bags stored nearby.  As leaves settle in the bin, continue to add the remaining leaves.  Leaves, in their natural form, are somewhat difficult to decompose.  Shredding the leaves will be a tremendous help to the decomposition process.  You can also speed up the process with the addition of microorganisms.  By incorporating a few grass clippings, composted manure, or fertilizer into the compost bin, the leaves can be reduced to a rich organic amendment for your future gardening needs.

   If you don’t have a compost bin, you can create a compost heap, which is simply a free-standing pile of leaves.  A good, workable size for a compost heap is about 3 feet wide and 3 feet high.  The length can vary according to the amount of leaves used.  Once again, the rate of decomposition depends greatly on the size of the material to be composted.  Shredding leaves will significantly help to speed the process.

   A third option is to incorporate leaves into the garden this fall.  After spreading a leaf layer (about 2” thick) over the garden, work the layer into the soil.  Then, let nature takes its course.  The leaves will decompose over the winter, resulting in rich, dark garden soil by next spring.

   So, there are several answers to your all too familiar question.  Choose the one that works best for you.  Just make sure to enjoy autumn’s last burst of color before it fades away.

    

   Category: Fall; Smart Yards

   Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

   Published: 11/29/2011 10:19 AM
6. Southern Heirloom Fruits
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   By Charles Mitchell and reviewed by Gary Gray

   I’ve been asked on several occasions about planting an heirloom fruit orchard on the grounds of Pioneer Park at the Lee County Historical Society in Loachapoka, Alabama. I have experience growing fruits on my nearby homestead and could probably develop a nice little demonstration orchard on the LCHS property. However, my concern is its historical authenticity. Did pioneers in Central Alabama have fruit orchards in the 1800s? I don’t know the answer. Undoubtedly, some homesteaders planted fruit trees but most of my readings about Alabama’s agricultural past suggest that fruit orchards were not a high priority with Alabama’s pioneers. Even into the 20th Century, most Alabama farmers were obsessed with producing the stables, cotton and corn and livestock. The commercial orchards that did exist were specialized such as some apples in North Alabama, peach orchards in Central Alabama, and satsuma oranges in South Alabama. Fresh fruits were seasonal and mostly collected from the wild e.g., dewberries and blackberries, wild huckleberries, plums, muscadine and possum grapes, wild persimmons, etc. By the early 20^th Century, commercial nurseries began to offer improved and grafted tree fruits that would do well in the South. Some enthusiastic homesteaders planted apples and pears and improved plums around their backyard gardens strictly for local consumption. Along with these, some figs and pomegranates from the Mediterranean seemed to thrive in Alabama’s climate. Even today, one might find an old fig tree or a hardy pear tree growing near an old, abandoned house site in rural Alabama.

   Peach. The peach has always been Alabama’s number one tree fruit in spite of the fact that we grow far less peaches than our neighbor, Georgia. Commercial peach production in Alabama can be traced back to the mid 1800s. Peaches really gained prominence by the late 19^th and early 20^th Centuries. According to the Encyclopedia of Alabama:

   The Alabama peach industry intensified with the arrival of Scandinavian immigrants Theodore Thorson and John Peterson, who established the settlement of Thorsby in 1895 in Chilton County. Peach trees were set as early as 1898, and the hilly landscape and climate seemed ideal for their cultivation. Although Georgian P.C. Smith was the first horticulturist to raise peaches commercially in Chilton County, it was the Scandinavians and other Thorsby growers who established a significant number of orchards, vineyards, and berry fields. Elberta was the variety of choice at the time, and Thorsby's farmers set between 135 and 170 trees on their 10-acre plots, netting about 75 cents per crate (slightly more than a present-day bushel).

   Backyard peach production has always been a challenge in Alabama because of the disease and insect pressure on this fragile crop. Even today, a peach tree’s productive life is only about 11 years. There are no peaches at Pioneer Park because of the intensive pesticide spray program necessary to assure nice fruit.

   Pears. The European pears e.g., ‘Bartlett’ types, that are so popular worldwide have never performed well in the heat and humidity of Alabama. Fire blight will usually kill them within a few years of planting. However, Alabama pioneers discovered that certain very hardy varieties could tolerate Alabama’s climate and produce an acceptable, hard pear that was perfect for preserving and canning. Most Alabama homesteads had one or more “hard” pear trees planted around the garden. Trees can live for decades and produce a crop of hard pears in late August and September in Central Alabama. These pears are the sources of pear preserves, canned pears, pear relish, pear pickles, dried pears and lots of other products that homemakers made from these heirloom pear trees that grow so well in Central Alabama. Two popular, heirloom varieties of grafted pears, ‘Keiffer’ and ‘Orient’, are planted at the rear of the McLain Garden at Pioneer Park. The round, Asian pears that have become popular during the last few decades were unknown to our ancestors but will grow in Alabama.

   Apples. Most apples have a high chill requirement (1000+ chill hours below 40 degrees F) and perform best in colder regions of the country. However, there are many varieties of apples that will grow and produce in Central Alabama. Undoubtedly, our pioneer ancestors brought some of these trees with them from the Carolinas, Virginia, and Georgia when they moved into East Alabama. Gary Gray, a horticultural Extension agent in Chilton County, remembers that his grandmother who was the daughter of Rev. C.W. Walton, the Methodist minister who pastored at Notasulga around the 1920s, told him that she remembered that they grew “Horse” apples, also called “Yellow Horse”. Commercial production was never widespread but most homesteads had hardy apple trees near their gardens. Hardy crabapples, in particular, could be found growing wild throughout the South. I recall a crabapple tree on the playground behind my elementary school in West-central Alabama. Today, apples are a challenge to grow this far South. New insects such as Japanese beetles and diseases such as fire blight and bitter rot that thrive in our heat and humidity make backyard apple production very challenging in Central Alabama. There are no apples planted in Pioneer Park due to this increased pest pressure that our pioneer fathers did not have to deal with.

   Possum Grapes and Muscadines. Viticulture (grape growing) never caught on in early Alabama. Alabama history tells the story of the aristocratic French exiles who settled present-day Demopolis with the intension of growing grapes and olives (“The Vine and Olive Colony”).  The Colony failed. While we had our own native bunch grapes called possum grapes or fox grapes (Vitis aestivalis) by most Alabamians, the types used to make European and Californian wines (Vitis vinifera) and the fox grapes native to the northeastern U.S. (Vitis labrusca) just did not do well here in the Deep South. Wild muscadine grapes (Vitis rotundifolia) thrive. Why would our ancestors bother growing them when they grew so abundantly around the edges of the woods. In the early fall, these native grapes were used for homemade sweet wines, jams and jellies, and incredible muscadine pies and cobblers. A light-colored to bronze muscadine found in North Carolina was named ‘Scuppernong’. Because it was the first light-colored muscadine cultivated, the name ‘Scuppernong’ came to be used today by many Southerners to refer to any light-colored, bronze, or white muscadine. Breeding efforts since WWII have resulted in the release of some incredible new muscadine varieties and the expansion of the wine industry in the South. Four improved varieties are planted along the west side of the McLain Garden, ‘Cowart’, a black, heirloom variety used for jams and jellies, ‘Supreme’, a large, improved black variety, and two, large, bronze varieties, ‘Pam’ and ‘Sweet Jenny’.

   Blackberries and dewberries. Why cultivate them when one could fill up a bucket from wild plants growing in ditches and abandoned fields all over Alabama? Dewberries grow along the ground and mature a few weeks earlier than blackberries. Blackberry thickets can be several feet high and almost impenetrable because of the stiff thorns. Blackberry or dewberry cobblers and ‘stir-rounds’ are a mainstay of Southern desserts. Raspberry, blackberry’s red, northern cousin, doesn’t do well in the Deep South. Today, most landowners consider bramble canes a weed and kill them to clean up pastures and woodlots, Most residents do not have access to the wild berries. The more productive, cultivated blackberries are the mainstay in supermarkets and roadside fruit stands. ‘Kiowa’, a large, productive blackberry variety that is just as thorny as its wild cousin, is planted along the east side of the McLain Garden. If the pioneers had access to some of the thornless blackberry varieties that we have today, they might have been more motivated to cultivate blackberries on the farm.

   Blueberries. Fifty years ago, most Southerners had never picked a cultivated blueberry. The little wild ones found in the woods and meadows were called ‘huckleberries’. Blueberries were grown up north (mostly Vaccinium corymbosum, northern highbush) . Development of cultivated varieties of the native rabbiteye blueberry (Vaccinium ashei) has transformed blueberry consumption in the Deep South over the past 40 to 50 years. A selection of modern, named varieties are planted along the McLain Garden fence although they were never grown in 19^th Century gardens.

   Plums. Native plums grew all over Alabama and there are several species of native plums other than the widespread (Prunus americana). Like blackberries, there was little reason to cultivate them when thickets of juicy red and yellow plums grew everywhere. The sour, marble-sized fruit of what I think was wild Chickasaw plum (P. angustifolia) made the best jellies and plum sauces. The popular, cultivated prune plums from Europe (P. domestica) did not grow well in the mild climate of Alabama. Most of our cultivated plums today are crosses with the juicy, large Japanese plums (P. salicina). Cultivated plums have some of the same challenges as cultivated peaches because they are both stone fruits. The biggest problem of both wild and cultivated plums is the plum curculio. Today it’s hard to find many ripe, unsprayed plums that aren’t “wormy” because of this insect. Farmstead chickens and turkeys kept the curculio under control in grandpa’s backyard orchard.

   Strawberries. In the early 20^th century, commercial strawberries were more popular in Alabama than peaches. They were also easily grown in or near the backyard garden on a typical Alabama homestead. Strawberries offered a tasty treat in the early spring before any other fruit was available. Strawberries were usually planted in or near the family’s vegetable garden. Since we have no heirloom vegetable garden at Pioneer Park, there are no strawberries.

   Figs. Figs are perhaps the easiest and most dependable fruit crop one can grow in the Deep South. That is why most homesteads in Central and South Alabama had figs. Several varieties of hardy figs will grow in Central Alabama but the standard variety is ‘brown turkey’, a medium size, purple fig that is used for preserves, jams, pickles, and dried figs. Many varieties, including ‘brown turkey’ may freeze during an unusually cold winter but they often will re-sprout from the roots and produce another small tree or bush within a year or two. Note that several varieties of figs are planted around the McLain Garden including ‘brown turkey.’

   Pomegranates. I often hear comments like, “My grandparents used to have huge pomegranate bushes on their property but I cannot get them to grow.” It is true that Alabama homesteads often had nice, productive pomegranate bushes. These are difficult to find today. I’m told that certain soil-borne, root diseases have moved in which can be devastating to pomegranates, especially in wet weather. We have not been unable to get them to grow at Pioneer Park.

   Persimmons. Wild, American persimmons grew everywhere and the fruit was plentiful. Every child growing up in rural Alabama had the experience, just once, of tasting an under-ripe, wild persimmon. However, once a hard freeze softens the pulpy fruit, the astringency disappears and the sweet flavor is remarkable. Our ancestors had to fight the raccoons, possums, and deer for a taste of this native fruit. Only recently have the large, non-astringent, Asian persimmons become popular in backyard orchards in the South.

   Fruits you will not see at Pioneer Park. Raspberries, cherries, kiwis, bunch grapes, olives and citrus were not grown on 19^th century homesteads in Central Alabama. We were either too far south or too far north or simply did not know about these fruits or didn’t have the time to cultivate them.

   Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

   Published: 11/29/2011 11:28 AM

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7. Fragrant Paperwhites
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          A popular and easy-to-flower bulb for late fall and the holidays is the paperwhite narcissus.   Sweet smelling paperwhites can be coaxed into bloom with very little effort.  Pre-potted paperwhites can be purchased at many garden stores. All you do is add water! These potted bulbs also make a nice gift or a fun activity for children.

    
   
   The correct term is actually "forcing" as you are forcing the spring-flowering bulbs to fast-forward their natural growth cycles and bloom in winter instead. Many bulbs can be forced--grape hyacinths, tulips, daffodils, and crocuses, for example--but paperwhites are probably the easiest as they don't require a long cold storage period to root.

   
   Paperwhites produce small, star-shaped flowers that will last for several weeks. Some varieties have pure white flowers, others have white perianths (outer petals) with pale yellow "cups" in the center. Paperwhites are native to the Mediterranean. Most garden centers and seed catalogs sell bulbs for indoor forcing.

   
   If purchasing locally, choose healthy bulbs with no soft spots or signs of discoloration.  They should be stored in a cool, dry place until time to plant.

   
   Paperwhites will bloom about four to six weeks after planting, so plan accordingly if you want flowers for the holidays or other special occasions. For continuous bloom throughout the winter, plant bulbs every two weeks from late fall through February.

   
   Use shallow containers, about three to four inches deep, without drainage holes. You can find these specially designed containers for forcing at many garden centers. Add about two inches of washed pebbles, or large glass beads similar to marbles (available at craft stores and some garden stores) in the bottom of the container.  If using the colorful glass beads, use a clear container so they can be seen.  Similar to other forcing bulbs, they can also be planted in pots with soil.

   
   Gently place the bulbs, pointed side up on the gravel or beads. They should be close, but not touching. (Five bulbs will fit nicely in a six-inch pot.)  Then add enough pebbles around the bulbs to hold them in place. If using soil, make sure the bulb tops are at or above the surface.

   
   The tricky part is watering the bulbs if not in soil. You want to add just enough water so it reaches the base of the bulbs. You don't want the bulbs to sit in water as this will cause rot. Maintain this level of water throughout the growing period. You'll probably need to replenish the water every two or three days. Don't fertilize—the bulb already contains the nutrients it needs.
   Place the container in a cool, dark place (about 50 degrees F) for a few weeks until green shoots appear (but don’t forget about them). Then move to full, bright light (generally, a window with southern exposure). Too little light, and the plants will grow leggy as they stretch to reach the light. Initially, room temperature should be 60 to 65 degrees.

   
   To prolong bloom, after the plants begin to flower, remove them from direct sunlight and place in a cooler, less sunny part of your home. Paperwhites planted indoors provide long-lasting flowers that are cheery and inexpensive.  Paperwhites can also be planted outdoors in USDA zones 8 to 11. Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor, University of Vermont was used as a resource for this article.

   ​

    

   Category: Houseplants

   Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

   Published: 11/14/2011 1:50 PM
8. Soil Sampling for Amended Soils and Mulch Gardens
   Body:

   A Master Gardener in Columbus, Georgia, had a question about getting a representative soil sample from a large, community garden project.  Here’s how she described the situation:

   “Let me explain the current conditions as we transition to a no-till garden. About 95% of the garden was mulched with a layer of newspapers or card board covered with bark chips (from ground up tree limbs etc.).  For the most part, that mulch is still in place, except for where the rows of vegetables existed.  Also, where the sweet potatoes were dug, the soil and mulch was turned. I have compost, which will result in an estimated 1" layer when spread over the garden. It had been my intention to use the subsoiler (not till) to break up the hard pan.  Of course, there will be minor "tilling", as a result of using the subsoiler.  I had then planned to spread the compost, and take 6-8" soil samples, from a cross section of the combined layers of compost, mulch remaining and existing soil beneath.”

   Should the gardener sample before or after incorporating the compost?

   How deep should she sample?

   Should multiple samples be taken at several depths?

   Before we finished answering these apparently simple, practical questions and discussing various scenarios, we were all were confused and the gardener still had not taken any soil samples.

   Here is one option we offered.  It made practical sense but confused the gardener.

   OPTION 1.  “Right now, before anything is done, brush away the organic material until you are at the soil (mostly mineral component) level. Take one sample  at 2” down then dig farther down in the same hole and take 6” down sample. This will give us information on stratification of the pH. You could take two samples in the above manner and mix them (2 x 2” and 2 x 6”) for a better sample, but take from the same general area, not way up the garden top ... we are doing a mini-sample of the garden in a specific area. I would like to see the lower tomato bed be the sample site, unless someone else has a preference. The plants there never seemed happy.”

   In an attempt to simplify what had become a complicated situation, here is what we finally told the gardener.  You may or may not agree.

   “First, the soil testing methods we use in Georgia and Alabama work well on MINERAL soils, not soils heavily mulched or with a lot of organic amendments added.  Take soil samples only from the mineral soil.

   Second, yes, soils can become stratified, especially pH when lime is applied to the surface and not incorporated.  However, in this situation with subsoiling, I'd sample the rooting zone i.e., 0 to 8 inches deep or so after scraping away any mulch.

   Third, COMPOST is a soil amendment!  It is very rich in nutrients (~ 1-1-1 grade fertilizer) and is almost totally organic.  A little bit can alter the soil test results so keep compost and organic mulches out of the soil sample but use them to supply plant nutrients and protect the soil surface.  Within a year or two, most compost is broken down in our mineral soils in the South and the nutrients released.  Then, it is time for another mineral soil sample.

   Fourth,  if you have a potting soil or make a soil mix using compost and other organic amendments (e.g., pine bark, peat, etc.), follow a "recipe" and DON'T TRY TO SOIL TEST IT.  You'll get screwy results that won't mean a lot beyond the pH.  We do have a potting mix test but it is expensive and time consuming and designed primarily for commercial producers.”

   

   Compost is a great soil amendment and can be used as a mulch but don’t try to “soil test” it.  Procedures used for soil testing in the South are for mineral soils, not organic amendments or heavily amended soil.

    Prepared 11/10/11 by

   Charles Mitchell, Extension Agronomist-Soils, Auburn University, phone: 334-844-5489.  mitchc1@auburn.edu

   and

   Jennifer Davidson, County Extension Agent, Univ. of Georgia. Columbus, GA.  phone: 706-653-4200l  jdavidso@uga.edu

   Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

   Published: 11/10/2011 3:22 PM

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9. Alternative N Sources for Crops
   Body:

   Background

   Rapidly increasing N fertilizer costs have left Alabama producers with few alternatives. Using legumes as winter cover crops and using poultry broiler litter as a source of nutrients are about the only alternatives for many producers. Dry urea (46-0-0) is an attractive and less expensive alternative to ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) for dry, surface application but the risks of volatilization losses can be high. This is especially true when applied during the hot, sometimes dry, summer months on residue in a well limed soil. Reduced tillage and high-residue management in cotton production leave no alternative but to surface apply dry urea. Liquid urea-ammonium nitrate solutions (UAN) are currently the most popular N source for row crops. With ammonium nitrate almost impossible to find and transport, the best dry substitute is a urea/ammonium sulfate blend (33-0-0) which is very acid forming and also subject to some ammonia loss. There are many new products on the market. The technology to manufacture controlled release fertilizers or to include an additive to a traditional fertilizer material will, of course, result in a higher cost to the consumer. Are the benefits actually worth the extra cost? Do some of these materials work under the heat and humidity of our Southern U.S. climate and with the crops we grow? Some of these products are heavily advertised and promoted nationwide.

   We have just completed 5 years of research with conservation tilled cotton and corn at the Prattville Research Unit in order to answer some of these questions. All materials were applied as a sidedress to corn and cotton at a standard recommended rate. In addition to standard fertilizer N materials such as ammonium nitrate, urea, UAN solution, urea/ammonium sulfate blends and poultry litter, we have included the following commercial N products.

   Agrotain® has become the standard urease inhibitor product currently being used in the Southeastern U.S. (Agrotain International,LLC). Agrotain was mixed with dry urea at the highest recommended rate to give 14-day protection under adverse soil conditions. The rate was 5 quarts per ton (24 ml Agrotain per 10 lb. urea). For 28% or 32% UAN solutions, the rate was 2.4 quarts per ton or about 11 ml per 10 lb. UAN solution (~1 gallon)..

   Nutrisphere N® (SFP, Leawood, KS) is formulated to be used with both dry urea and UAN solutions. Both formulations were included at the manufacturers recommended rate. The Nutrisphere website claims that the product “controls urease, keeping it from robbing your nitrogen — or your yield potential” and “protects nitrogen in its ammonium state before it gets converted, giving you the greatest return on your nitrogen fertilizer investment.” .

   Nitamin Nfusion® is a Georgia-Pacific product (22% N, of which 94% is slowly available) to be blended with UAN solutions. However, in this study it was used at the full rate as a sidedress N application. It is marketed by Kock Agronomic Services who claim it is “. . . formulated to provide growers and turf professionals with safe and efficient slow-release nitrogen fertilizers.”

   ESN® SMART NITROGEN® (44-0-0) is a polymer-coated, controlled release urea product from Agrium Advanced Technologies (U.S.) Inc. The website states, “Its controlled-release technology delivers nitrogen to crops all through the growing season” and that “. . . ESN promotes yield.” (http://www.smartnitrogen.com/)

   Calcium chloride. In 2007, 2008, and 2009, a liquid calcium chloride solution was included with urea and UAN solutions. There were claims that calcium chloride could help reduce volatilization losses of urea-based N sources. We saw no evidence of this in 2008 and 2009 so calcium chloride was dropped as a treatment in 2010.

   Conclusions from Research

   The newer controlled release N products did not show any yield advantage to more conventional N sources such as urea, ammonium nitrate, UAN solution, or the urea-ammonium sulfate blend which is being sold as a substitute for ammonium nitrate (Fig. 1-2). Agrotain® did reduce ammonia-N losses from urea but this did not translate into higher yields of corn or cotton. Poultry litter results in very high ammonia losses when applied as a sidedress to both cotton and corn but this is not the normal way to apply litter. For the relatively low, non-irrigated yields represented by this study, the newer, controlled release N products failed to produce a consistent yield advantage over traditional N materials. The complete report will soon be published as an Alabama Agricultural Experiment Station bulletin.

   Prepared 11/04/2011 by Charles C. Mitchell, Extension Agronomist-Soils

   	Fig. 1. Mean relative corn grain yields (2008-2011) from different products when applied as a sidedress at the recommended rate of 120 pounds total N per acre. Some products were applied at a higher or lower rate as indicated in parentheses. AN=ammonium nitrate; UAN=urea-ammonium nitrate liquid; PL=poultry broiler litter; AGR=Agrotain®; NUT= Nutrisphere N®; ESN=ESN® nitrogen.

   Fig. 2. Mean relative cotton lint yields (2008-2011) from different products when applied as a sidedress at the recommended rate of 90 pounds total N per acre. Some products were applied at a higher or lower rate as indicated. AN=ammonium nitrate; UAN=urea-ammonium nitrate liquid; Ca = liquid CaCl2; Litter=poultry broiler litter at 2 rates; AGR=Agrotain®; Nut= Nutrisphere N®; ESN=ESN® nitrogen.

    

   Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

   Published: 11/4/2011 1:36 PM

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10. Fall Landscape Includes Trees of Many Colors
    Body:

    At this time of the year, you can't help but notice that the seasons are changing and autumn or fall is definitely here. Out driving around one will see that the landscape and countryside is beginning to brilliantly display its many fall colors. A little bit of red here, a touch of yellow there, and spots of orange mixed amongst all green and what is left of this past summer. Just looking at all the beautiful colors of nature can put one in awe, which explains why viewing the autumn foliage is such a popular annual event.

    But one thing you may not know or have realized is the type of trees that represent all those fall colors. Knowing which trees have the yellow, red, orange, purple, brown, or gold fall foliage is the challenging part. And to make it harder, the fall foliage of some trees turn sooner than others. Let's see if we can figure all this out. The following trees give an excellent and reliable show of fall color:

    Green

    This is an easy one, right? There are two types of trees: deciduous and evergreen. Deciduous trees shed there leaves every fall while evergreen trees keep there leaves year around. Therefore, it is the deciduous trees that are responsible for the fall foliage and various colors other than green. Each fall, the green leaves or green spots present in the landscape are the evergreen trees, which, in Alabama, include all the pine trees, eastern red cedars, magnolias, and American hollies. However, that rule can be tricky early in the season. The foliage of most oak trees usually remains green until late in the season. So until the foliage of all the deciduous trees turn to their respectable colors, the evergreen trees with lasting green foliage won't be quite evident.

    Red or Scarlet

    In the landscape and countryside, the trees with red or scarlet foliage are usually red maples, sourwoods, blackgums, flowering dogwoods, sweetgums, northern red oaks, southern red oaks, and scarlet oaks. Near and around homes, many people desiring red fall color often plant Japanese maples, ornamental red maples, crapemyrtles, and Bradford pears. Chinese elms, Shumard oaks, and Japanese flowering cherries will also display nice red fall foliage.

     Orange, Yellow or Gold

    Sugar maples are number one on my list because they are best known for their spectacular fall orange foliage. Examples of trees with orange, yellow, or gold fall foliage include numerous ornamental maples, some Japanese Maples, all native hickories, river birches, willow oaks, American beeches, green ash, yellow-poplars, and gingko trees. Yellow-poplars, sometimes called tulip trees, are one of the first trees to turn its leaves yellow at the first sign of cooler weather. American beeches will hold their spectacular gold to tan leaves throughout the entire winter until right before spring's new growth. Hickories go unnoticed throughout most of the year but come alive in the fall with their bright golden leaves. For the best pure buttery yellow, nothing beats the ornamental ginkgo trees during autumn.

    Purple

    Occasionally, the color purple is seen amongst the fall foliage. Trees that sometimes display purple fall foliage are sweetgums, Chinese elms, and white ash. In Alabama, sweetgum trees, known mostly for their nuisance "sweetgum balls," are usually the first trees to splash the landscape with its deep red then purple fall foliage. Purple is not as common as the other colors but seems to pop up in the landscape when you least expect it.

    Brown

    The leaves of most trees turn from green directly to brown without the display of any other color. Eventually, the trees that have red, orange, yellow, gold, or purple fall foliage will also turn brown. Most leaves turn brown once they are dropped by the trees and are dried out once lying on the ground. Dull brown, like the brighter colors, are part of the fall landscape and play a role in the fall show. But if a tree displays brown foliage for any significant amount of time, anytime of the year, then the brown leaves could indicate that tree is dead or dying.

    The foliage that trees displayed each fall is simply a beautiful kaleidoscope of colors and a much anticipated annual event. An appreciation of nature can be found by taking the time to observe its wonder. Fall is here so go enjoy the colorful show.

    Shane Harris is the County Extension Coordinator for Tallapoosa County.

    Category: Fall; Ornamentals

    Default Subject: Home Grounds, Gardens and Home Pests

    Published: 11/4/2011 10:36 AM